Headlight Restoration in Bastrop, TX. Free, no-pressure estimates.
When you notice your car's headlights look foggy, yellowed, or hazy, that's oxidation from UV exposure and road grit eating into the polycarbonate lens. It cuts your nighttime visibility significantly and makes an otherwise clean vehicle appear older than it is. Homeowners call us because they want safer driving and a fresher look without spending hundreds on new assemblies.
We start by taping off the surrounding paint and trim, then wet-sand the lens with 400-grit, followed by 800, 1500, and 3000-grit paper to level the damaged layer. After sanding, we run a wool pad with a heavy-cut polishing compound to restore clarity, then switch to a foam pad with a finer polish. Finally, we apply a UV-blocking clear coat and cure it with a heat lamp to lock in the finish.
The main factor that affects time and cost is the severity of the oxidation: a lightly hazed lens takes less sanding than one with deep pitting or yellowing. Access matters too—some vehicles have tight bumper gaps or fixed housings that slow the work. Weather plays a role because the clear coat needs a dry, dust-free environment to cure properly, so humidity or wind can extend the job.
On the day of service, we set up in our shop bay with good lighting and ventilation. We protect the surrounding paint with tape and masking film. After finishing, we remove all tape, wipe down the area, and inspect the lenses for clarity. You don't need to do anything beforehand—just bring the car in. Afterward, avoid automatic car washes for 48 hours to let the clear coat fully harden.
We use four grits from 400 to 3000, stepping up gradually to remove oxidation without scratching the underlying lens plastic.
A sprayed-on clear coat with UV inhibitors prevents re-yellowing for years, unlike simple polish jobs that leave the lens unprotected.
We tape off the headlight bezel, bumper, and hood edges to keep sanding residue and polish off your paint and trim.
Starting with 400-grit and moving through 800, 1500, and 3000, we sand each lens until the yellowed layer is gone and the surface is smooth.
Using a rotary buffer with a wool pad and heavy-cut compound, then a foam pad with fine polish, we bring back the optical clarity.
We spray a UV-blocking clear coat evenly over each lens and cure it under a heat lamp for about 15 minutes to harden the finish.
Skipping grits leaves swirls or hazy patches. We run all four grits by hand to ensure a uniformly smooth surface before polishing.
Air-dried clear coats can stay soft and trap dust. We use a heat lamp to cure the coating fully, giving a harder, longer-lasting seal.
Compound and sanding dust can etch clear coat. We mask every adjacent panel and trim piece before starting the restoration.
Stop by our shop or give us a call. We'll take a look at your vehicle, explain the work needed, and give you a straightforward estimate — no pressure, no surprises.