Auto Painting in Bastrop, TX. Free, no-pressure estimates.
When you call about auto painting, you are likely dealing with peeling clear coat, a faded finish, or a color change you have been planning. The car may look dull, or a previous repair has left a mismatch. You want a durable, glossy result that brings the body back to like-new condition without overspray or orange peel.
We start by washing the vehicle and removing trim, emblems, and lights. Then we sand the existing paint with 400- to 600-grit paper, feathering edges on any damaged areas. Primer is applied, block-sanded, and sealed. In our spray booth, we apply the chosen paint system—single-stage, basecoat/clearcoat, or tri-coat—using HVLP spray guns. Each coat is flashed and checked for runs before the final clear.
What makes one job cost more or less includes the number of panels, the paint type (pearl or tri-coat costs more in materials than solid), and the condition of the existing paint. Faded or damaged panels need more prep and primer. Weather affects booth cure times: humidity slows drying. Access to a full respray is straightforward; a spot repair requires careful blending into adjacent panels.
On paint day, we move your car into the booth and mask off any areas not being painted. After spraying, we bake the finish in the booth to harden the clear coat. You should remove all personal items and aftermarket accessories before drop-off. After the job, we reassemble trim and lights, then wet-sand and buff if needed. You can drive the car home that day, but avoid washing it for two weeks.
We use a digital spectrophotometer to read your car's paint code and measure current color fade, then manually tint the paint to match.
For partial repairs, we blend the new paint into the adjacent panel's clear coat so the transition is invisible to the eye.
We remove trim, sand the old paint to bare metal or primer, and repair any rust or dents before applying a fresh primer coat.
We mask off windows, tires, and jambs, then seal the primer with a high-build sealer to prevent solvent pop.
In the booth, we apply basecoat, then clearcoat, allowing flash time between coats. The booth bakes the finish at 140°F to cure.
After curing, we wet-sand any dust nibs, buff the clear to a gloss, then reinstall trim, lights, and badges.
Paint only lasts as long as the prep underneath. We sand, prime, and seal every panel to prevent peeling, rust bubbles, or adhesion failure down the road.
Faded paint needs more than a code lookup. We blend tints by hand and spray test cards to match the exact hue and metallic flake of your car's existing finish.
Our spray booth filters dust and maintains temperature and humidity, so the clear coat lays flat without orange peel, dirt nibs, or solvent pop.
Stop by our shop or give us a call. We'll take a look at your vehicle, explain the work needed, and give you a straightforward estimate — no pressure, no surprises.